Just a few more descriptions of life in this wonderful,
unpredictable country:
Politics and Economic Decline
Why Italian Road Signs Almost Drove Anne Mad
Food (cooked and RAW!)
Grating Pecorino cheese over some "plin" |
The food in the Piedmont is almost as famous as the
wine. This is the home of the Slow Food
movement, a reaction to fast food that emphasizes fresh ingredients based on
what is in season.
The pasta is
phenomenal! Especially these puffy
little raviolis called “plin” that are usually stuffed with rabbit meat and served
with either a ragu (tomato meat sauce made with veal) or sage and butter. And a specialty called “tajarin,” a handmade,
hand-cut pasta made from eggs. When
tajarin is cooked perfectly al dente, it is the best pasta we have ever tasted!
Super fresh salad with the best oil and vinegar |
Salads are always super fresh and served with only the
best olive oils and vinegars. The balsamic
vinegars are out of this world. For
dessert, our favorite splurges were a lemon cake that was incredibly moist and
tart (topped with lemon rind) and hazelnut cake, a very nutty cake that was
just a tad dry until you added some powdered chocolate and a special sauce made
from eggs, sugar, and sweet Marsala wine.
O Dio mio!
Amazingly moist and tart Lemon Cake |
Breakfast deserves a paragraph of its own: coffee/tea,
juice, yogurt, fresh fruit, fresh bread, and so many sweet goodies like
homemade jams and always amazing homemade cakes and apricot tarts all freshly
made. Interestingly, at our both B & Bs,
the men of the house did all the baking – and the results were incredible!
The totally RAW salsiccia! |
One very quirky aspect of the Piemontese diet is an
obsession with raw meat. Yes, RAW. At first, we thought it was a language translation
problem, and that they must mean rare meat, but we were wrong. We first encountered this phenomenon in a
restaurant when we were served an appetizer called carne cruda. Honest to God, this was a raw hamburger patty on a
dish. (We wish we had a picture, but we
were so flummoxed, Frank didn’t even reach for his camera.) We figured “when in Rome” and managed to eat
it. Not bad, as long as you didn’t think
about what you were eating.
Later, at our Asti B & B, Frank asked about the
difference between salume and salsiccia since both appeared to be sausages. The answer was that while salume is aged, salsiccia is “bloody.” Once again, we thought this was a translation
problem and were thrilled when our hosts said they would get some salsiccia for us. So imagine our reaction
when they proudly presented us with a plate of uncooked sausage (this time we
took a picture!). Again, it didn’t taste
bad – just an issue of mind over matter.
But I don’t think we would go out of way to eat any raw meats ever
again!
Politics and Economic Decline
Home of the first Italian Parliament (in Turin) |
We don’t usually get into political discussions in
foreign places, but we became friends with Maria Luiza, the marvelous postmistress
of Pettanasco, a village near Lake Orta. She told us the situation
in Italy is terrible (tear EE blah, as
Maria Luiza pronounced it). She said
that Italy, the land of art and music, is turning into Tunisia. It truly is terrible to see the sad state of
the economies of so much of Western Europe.
Why Italian Road Signs Almost Drove Anne Mad
The Italians are masters at the art of fine living. When it comes to food, wine, fashion &
design etc., their talents are legendary.
But they are a bit weak when it comes to practical things. For example, their road signs are the worst we
have seen anywhere. It’s not that
signage is lacking. There are signs everywhere, sometimes a dozen signs stacked
on one pole! The problem is with logic
and consistency.
In Europe, route numbers are seldom (or poorly)
displayed, so you need to navigate according to the cities and towns along your
route. The only difficulty is that you
need to know what larger city is in the direction that you want to go. And the whole navigational issue becomes
worse when you have traffic circles because every circle requires a decision. With traffic circles every few miles and
crazy, inconsistent road signs, Italy takes this European concept of navigation
to a whole new bizarro level.
Which way do we go??? |
Here is one small example:
If the road you are driving will eventually intersect with a highway
going to Asti and Arona, your road may be identified in a traffic circle with a
sign that says “Asti/Arona.” Now these
two cities lie in opposite directions and are hundreds of miles apart, but you
want to head toward this highway that provides the option of going to either
city. So even if you have no intention
of going to either Asti or Arona, this is the road sign you need to follow to
continue on your road.
As if all this isn’t bad enough, at the next traffic
circle, your road sign may say only “Asti.”
Now even though you don’t want to go anywhere near Asti, you have to
remember that the direction you want to go is toward the highway that will give
you the option of going to Asti, so this is the sign you want to follow. Can you see how the signage can make you lose
your mind? And there are lots more
horrifying examples. The only good thing about an Italian traffic circle is
that you can continue around it more than once until you sort out which direction
you need to take! Maybe next time we’ll
opt for GPS.
This brings us to the end of our blog for this trip. Despite a few issues with the roads, we had a fantastic time -- France and Italy
are without question two of the most enjoyable countries on the planet!